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Old 05-27-2010, 10:13 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I wouldn't say it's just timing that makes or breaks dual QEVs on a mech. It's also the trigger pull. Short stroking is much, much easier with QEVs, in part because it lets the hammer skip the sear, and also because you are forced to time the gun tighter. Like I said, there is no point to keeping them on your gun if it is staying mechanical.
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Old 05-27-2010, 10:37 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by russc View Post
I wouldn't say it's just timing that makes or breaks dual QEVs on a mech. It's also the trigger pull. Short stroking is much, much easier with QEVs, in part because it lets the hammer skip the sear, and also because you are forced to time the gun tighter. Like I said, there is no point to keeping them on your gun if it is staying mechanical.
I spent a lot of time and air looking at the return stroke of the bolt . I debated with myself about putting the old beat up ram that origionally came with the AC back on to see if that would have fixed it .
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Old 05-28-2010, 04:19 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Yep, that's a no-no. If you are going to use a QEV on a mechanical gun, it can only be the rear QEV - the one that vents as the ram extends. Front QEVs make the ram return faster than the sear can rise to catch the hammer. I mean, you can make it work with dual QEVs, but it isn't worth the headaches, as you've found out. There really isn't much point in running QEVs on a mech at all, since it just makes the gun louder and less smooth.
I run 1 qev....on the front. Its quiet and absolutely kicks ***.
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Old 05-28-2010, 05:55 AM   #24 (permalink)
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If its timed right you can run QEV's fine. First you have to get the cocker running right.

worst thing is from what I've read it looks like you got a cocker that wasnt anywhere near working right to begin with so your pretty much starting from square one. Which if you dont have good parts or know how to build and time a cocker from scratch your even in a worse boat.

But yea as for the screw hole being damaged from the sounds of it and can install a set of re-coils and they'll be good as new. If you want even like I offered before I can go thru the whole thing and set it up for you.

if you have any other questions feel free to pm me
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Thanks for the offer but I'm sure I can put thread inserts in myself. This autococker was in very rough condition when I got it . About every seal leaked , the bolt took some effort to remove on account of the orings being gunked up , cap screws with locking washers were used to hold the frame and dovetail on instead of button head screws , the screws were rusted & rounded out , the anno is beaten & worn . The Ebay add had a crappy picture so all I could really tell was what color it was and what the main components were . Decided to take a gamble and lost . I think I may hold off selling it and rebuild it again from the ground up . What do you guys think ?



The way I had it set up when I actually got it to work properly was with : the frontblock you see pictured with a standard front block screw instead of the volumizer , pnuematics were all palmers nickel including the high pressure reg (the hpr in the pic needs a rebuild and the anno is very worn) , a nickel Kapp slider frame , black backblock with an old aluminum venturi bolt , maddmann valve and stock IVG & hammer with a green spring from a kit .
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