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Old 03-19-2007, 10:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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AH HA! I thought so.

That would be such an easy mod to do to any alloy trigger shoe. A drill bit, a 4-40 tap and a supply of 4-40 x 1/4 setscrews. Run the tap through until it just pokes out the back side and then try the screw. Run the tap in 1/2 a turn further at a time until the setscrew is stiff but not dangerously hard to turn to act as a thread lock.

I'm wanting to do it the other way. I want my trigger shoe to be further back towards the back limit. So I want to put in a forward travel limit and use all the back travel I can. Same result but different method.
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Old 03-21-2007, 11:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Railgun View Post
I'm wanting to do it the other way. I want my trigger shoe to be further back towards the back limit. So I want to put in a forward travel limit and use all the back travel I can. Same result but different method.
I actually did that with a Sniper II. Using a stock composite frame, I basically drilled a hole just a hair smaller than the set screw I had (6- or 8-32, I think?) and then ran the screw in so it cut its own threads. (that's why I love those composite frames so much - they're tough as nails and very tinker-friendly)

I had it going in straight from the front of the frame, so I had to take out the screw holding the frame on to adjust it, but it worked like a charm. I had that thing down to about 1mm (any shorter than that and it didn't seem to cock consistently). Given that you need slightly more length in the pull on a 'Cocker (to actuate the pneumatics), you won't be able to get it quite that short, but I'm sure a good deal of improvement could be made.
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Old 03-21-2007, 11:15 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Get an omega roller sear. Have 2 of them in my guns, and they set up butter smooth.

For ease of adjustment, why not get a rex kit or other hammer kit that allows for velocity adjustment without pulling the cocking rod?
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Old 03-21-2007, 11:30 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Get an omega roller sear. Have 2 of them in my guns, and they set up butter smooth.
Yes, they're very smooth, but I'm just not too happy with the wear & tear on them. I put a brand new sear into the 'Cocker I used at Fall Castle last year and with just one case of paint through it, there was already a pronounced gouge forming on the sear tip. If they made them of a higher-quality metal, they'd be perfect. I haven't been able to identify exactly what they're made of, but it's obviously not a hardened material. The material seems very similar in texture to the sintered bronze bushings I used to have to clean & lube back in my previous career as the "copier guy". The metal is very pourous, which is great for the purposes of a bushing or bearing because you could effectively "saturate" them with oil (this was actually the recommended practice from a few manufacturers), but it also meant that when they ran dry, they wore out very quickly (and noisily - whenever someone complained that their copier sounded like the shower scene in Psycho, I knew that my boss had been there previously and probably not lubed those bushings).
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Old 03-22-2007, 12:42 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Wycke, you aren't the first to suggest that method. A couple of others, and maybe you as well, suggested that when I asked about this a while back. Odd thing is that it was also how I saw to do it as well but I didn't like the need to remove the frame to make the adjustment.

So far I got into some other projects and have not gottem back to this mod. But it's on "The List"....
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Old 03-22-2007, 10:12 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I didn't like the need to remove the frame to make the adjustment.
No need to remove the whole frame, just the front screw that holds it to the body. There's probably another way to do it without requiring that, but considering how rarely you'll need to adjust it, taking one screw out isn't all that hard...
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Old 03-22-2007, 12:02 PM   #17 (permalink)
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No need to remove the whole frame, just the front screw that holds it to the body. There's probably another way to do it without requiring that, but considering how rarely you'll need to adjust it, taking one screw out isn't all that hard...
But the VA is in the way and blocks feeding in the allen key. It's still not a big deal to undo both screws to slip the frame to one side and get at it.
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Old 03-24-2007, 12:36 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I always used a combination of Slick Honey and Tri-Flow lubes on my trigger internals, which works VERY well with the ER pieces.
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