Paintball

[Donut SD]

I did it. Funny thing is it shoots when you release the trigger... rather than shooting as you pull.

No I didn't drill the back block lol. I'm using stock internals. I've been wrestling the 3 way (it's a palmers quickswitch by the way) for a while now. Any help guys? I left the qev's on the ram...is that problem? I have them on another mech and they don't hinder operation.

Too tired to post a picture right now. I'm going to bed. pictures tomorrow...

[paintballedbackin88]

What kind of frame are you using? When you say shoots, do you mean it cycles the back block or the sear releases the hammer when you release the trigger?

[Donut SD]

Originally Posted by paintballedbackin88

What kind of frame are you using? When you say shoots, do you mean it cycles the back block or the sear releases the hammer when you release the trigger?

CCM 45 hinge frame

Sorry i haven't uploaded the pictures. But here's the video I had showing what was going on.

[raptor69r]

Can`t see clearly on the video, but you may want to switch the hoses on your 3 way, as the hinge push forward on the 3 way shaft compare to an slider, pulls back...

Don`t know if this may help...

[redlaser666]

It also sounds like the sear is not catching the hammer lug. You may want to set it with the gun de-gassed first.

To check it, de-gas the gun and manualy pull on the back block without pulling on the trigger. Push it back forward and close the breach. If you now pull the trigger the hammer should go forwasrd and hit the valve. If nothing happens when you pull the trigger then the hammer didnt catch the sear. Lower the hammer lug with an 1/8" hex key.

Good luck. It looks promising.

[Donut SD]

Sear is catching the hammer lug. It shoots when degassed. after some thought, it may be the ICS. I wanna keep it. But it seems the stock spring may be too soft? Much like the 3way valve is cycling before the hammer can hit the valve pin inside?

[FrankW]

Im no expert, but i love problems. It sounds like the hammer is cycling before the sear has a chance to get back into position. Since it sounds like you've already been playing with the timing, I would try:
1. Lowering the lpr pressure.
2. Lower the sear lug. So it sticks out more.

Ive never played with qevs before, but since it makes things cycle faster I would think that might affect it too.

[Donut SD]

Done all of that. still tinkering as we speak...

EDIT. I'm gonna blame the qev's right now. I got no spare barbs. so I'll re-convene on this when I get my hands on some

[paintballedbackin88]

Th qevs wreak havoc with mechs. I've found it can make the ram cycle faster than the sear can rise to catch the hammer. I solved the issue by either shimming the sear spring with a round head screw in the grip frame, placed head down with the sear spring over it or using a much stiffer sear spring, sometimes both. Another option is just going with a standard ram with no qevs, especially since a mech doesnt cycle fast enough for the qevs to make a difference.

I think the qevs are more appropriate if you are going to be ramping or shooting greater than 10 bps. I've run qevs on 3 mechs, and they seem to be very specific on timing and spring tension, whereas mechs without qevs are not as demanding.

I should add that I didn't have a problem with mechs and qevs until I added a roller sear to the equation, then things got complicated.

[Donut SD]

In this case I'm gonna find some barbs and get back to you. I have a slider mech w/ 2 qevs and it works wonderfully. But that's probably an anomaly on my part.