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Old 04-11-2013, 04:25 PM   #11 (permalink)
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the first time I did not cock it before i aired it up. the second time I did. Both time leaked.

Not cocking the gun means what? the hammer is resting on the valve and leaving it open? Even after cocking it didn't change :s I let the air leak for a sec and it stopped leaking so intensely and that's when it started leaking down the barrel instead of just all-around leaking.

I'm gunna pop open the valve-side internals and take a look in a second, see if anything doesnt look right. Tbh it's highly possible i didn't seat something correctly when I put them all in lol. Herpaderpderp.

@frenchy, dunno what my reg is set at. No gauge or pressure tester :s
When you don't cock the gun before airing it up, the hammer holds the valve open slightly causing the gun to leak down the barrel
The valve spring that CCM uses in their lower tube kits is one of the lightest springs I have seen. I would even go as far as saying that it is lighter then the green spring in a madmann kit.

If you are new to Autocockers/Snipers and CCM lower tubes, set your reg at 300PSI as a starting point for sweetspoting the gun. I would even take a look at the CCM section in the armoury. There is a really good thread on how to sweetspot your marker in there.
I have put a few CCM lower tube kits in a few of my Snipers and Cockers and I love them.
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Old 04-11-2013, 04:46 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I need to get my tank back from my cousin, but I think it was the pressure not being set high enough to close the valve.

I got so nervous lmao. I'll test it in a few hours once I have an air source.

Thanks all for leading me in the right direction. I'll look for that thread possum, I appreciate it.
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:13 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Yup ccm internals are CHOICE
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:26 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Another thing to check is the jam nut. Tighten it down as tight as you can by hand then snug it up with a pair of vice grips or adjustable wrench on the valve tool. That was my issue. As well make sure you lube the snot out if the valve oring stem and cupseal
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:59 PM   #15 (permalink)
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TechT Gun Sav work? It's pretty thick stuff, still not too familiar with exactly what parts need thick lube vs more liquid oil or something.
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Old 04-11-2013, 11:48 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Definitely not the reg pressure....

Had the gun cocked, tried the reg pressure as low as it'd go and it was leaking, turned it up and still leaked, went way higher (almost as far out as the screw would turn) and it just leaked louder.

EDIT: sorry for the double post :X
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Old 04-11-2013, 11:52 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Degass marker and make sure that the hammer moves freely the entire length of the bottom tube.

If it is getting stuck - it will hold the valve open as well.

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Old 04-12-2013, 12:11 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Waiting for my valve tool to get here (in mail).. hammer is fine, everything cycles well, hammer moves freely and strikes the valve pin perfectly.

at this point I think the only thing that could be effing up is the ASA where the reg meets the body or any of the internals (the spring, the valve, valve seat screw even) on the valve's side of the lower tube.

Not in any rush I guess :X
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Old 04-17-2013, 11:09 AM   #19 (permalink)
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TechT Gun Sav work? It's pretty thick stuff, still not too familiar with exactly what parts need thick lube vs more liquid oil or something.
Grease can be used in the entire lower tube give the hammer a liberal amount. Also lube the valve oring valve stem and cupseal
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:13 PM   #20 (permalink)
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sweetness. Still waiting on my valve tool, I'll get in there and lewb it all up when I can. And pay extra attention to how everything's going back in >_>
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