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Old 05-07-2013, 06:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Trigger sticking on new slider frame

Ok community guru's, I bought a new frame for my Trilogy and up until today worked flawlessly. I bought the following:

WGP Autococker 45 Slide Trigger Frame - Dust Black

&

WGP Autococker Trigger Roller Bearing Sear

For some odd reason, today of all days, sitting at home, I was practicing my full pull finger stroke and all of a sudden the damn trigger locks back in the rearward position. I took it apart, oiled the bearing with a micro oilier (used to oil bearings on r/c cars), stroked it some more, but it's still binding once installed back on the gun. I did notice two set screws under the frame, on under the trigger and one is right above the first finger groove behind the trigger, what are these for ? No manual came with the frame, I figured it was plug and play.
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Those are set screws to take up vertical slack in slider frames. The one under the trigger is for the front portion of the slide and the rear set screw is for the back position. You may have to back out the rear set screw just a tad so it can cycle reliably. Basically it is getting stuck by that rear screw. You can replace these with with screws that have brass tips on them to help reduce friction during the trigger pull. Other materials too like PVC or roller bearings. Usually they are either 10/32 or 8/32 threads. The rear one tends to be smaller on occasion depending on manufacturer.
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The one in the trigger guard is a post trigger stop, the other one in the handle is for removing vertical slack in the plate. Back the screws out a little while the frame is off the body and reattach the frame to the body. To adjust the slack, pull the trigger back and tighten the screw in the handle until you feel it touch the trigger plate (don't over do it, you don't want to cause any divits in the plate); the trigger should stay stuck in place as you have described already. Back the screw out slowly until the trigger starts to rest (it'll begin to move slow as there will still be some friction there). Back the screw out juust a liitle more until it fully resets, than give the trigger another pull and make sure it doesn't feel rough.

I repeated the procedure for the screw in the trigger guard. It didn't really stop the trigger much beyond releasing the sear, so I used it to further remove any slack in the trigger plate.
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If typing was my career, I'd starve to death.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:21 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Turns out, after getting my grips off and removing the sear/trigger, the trigger spring had a mangled face. I got another one in a spring kit to replace tomorrow, but I appreciate the tip on the set screws, this may alleviate this issue in the future.
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