97 autococker

Moosepatrol · 02-24-2008, 01:28 AM

I just received my first cocker and figured the best way to learn about this marker was to completely disassemble, clean and put her back together. Everything went great but after putting her back together I have some questions. After manually cocking and firing I noticed the back block has a gap of about 1/8" from the body, is this the proper gap? Also the pump rod will not move any further past this point, I think the ram bottoms out at this point, can't help but think this should be adjusted so the ram has some play after firing. Any help is appreciated.

pummel u · 02-24-2008, 03:06 AM

As far as back block spacing, a gap the thickness of a credit card is good. You want just enough space that the block doesnt slam the body; this could lead to an ugly finish or stripping of the pump arm threads.

It is better to have the ram bottom out than to have the ram throw the hammer lug up against the back of the body.

Railgun · 02-24-2008, 12:19 PM

You're onto the whole setup and timing aspect. Cockers are fully adjustable in many ways but that means that there's lots of adjustments to be done.

There's a great setup and timing article at Moody Paintball Products in the Tech Arctiles section. It was my bible when I got my first couple of cockers.

A hint though. A lot of the adjustments in the later steps are based on what you did in the early steps. So start at #1 and work down. If you need to back track go back and adjust what you need and then redo all the others that come after. A lot of the stuff interacts. Especially the hammer lug and 3way setup points.

Step 1 is setting the back block gap.....

Oh, one aspect that is mentioned but passed over fairly fast is the cocking rod knob setup. when the ram pushes the back block back you should still be able to grab the cocking rod knob and pull it back another 1/16 to 1/8 inch. If you cannot do that then the thing stopping the ram travel is not the ram but the hammer lug smashing into the back of the lug slot in the body. This is not good. The ram travel is what should limit the back block travel, not the cocking rod and hammer lug.

Moosepatrol · 03-02-2008, 11:20 PM

Okay got the spacing of the back block set, the ram travel stops the back block. So I gassed her up to see how she works, so I have a better understanding of how everything moves, leak out the back of the three way. Took the three way off and sure enough a nick out of the back o-ring. Question, where do I locate these o-rings, damn they are small.

Jordan · 03-03-2008, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moosepatrol

Okay got the spacing of the back block set, the ram travel stops the back block. So I gassed her up to see how she works, so I have a better understanding of how everything moves, leak out the back of the three way. Took the three way off and sure enough a nick out of the back o-ring. Question, where do I locate these o-rings, damn they are small.

You'll need either another 3-way, a seal kit from WGP, or a lot of patience at the local hardware store.

What kind of 3-way is it?

Jordan

brycelarson · 03-03-2008, 12:38 PM

Cocker Tech

I like this cocker timing guide - same info, just formatted better.

may want to bit the bullet and get one of these - you'll find similar kits from many websites. This way you'll have everything you need for the next o-ring that goes.

WGP Cocker O-ring Kit by Worr Games, Autococker Gun Upgrades at Paintball Express.com

Moosepatrol · 03-07-2008, 11:07 AM

Okay ANS 3-way, found some o-rings from a hydraulic house nearby. Slightly larger thickness, but I.D. is the same. I think I'll have to break down and buy a kit from the manufacturer. I am wondering about the friction of a slightly larger o-ring in the three way. How sensitive is a three way to even the slightest bit from something like this. Also was on the ANS site, they have a similar three way for 12.95, would I be better off just to get a brand new one, and if so mine being a '97 do I have to look for any specific 3-way, are they compatible?

Phantom Power · 03-07-2008, 12:01 PM

If it's just a slight bit larger, then it'll probably still work but more friction on the 4-way throw will yield a stickier trigger pull.

Jordan · 03-08-2008, 12:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moosepatrol

Okay ANS 3-way, found some o-rings from a hydraulic house nearby. Slightly larger thickness, but I.D. is the same. I think I'll have to break down and buy a kit from the manufacturer. I am wondering about the friction of a slightly larger o-ring in the three way. How sensitive is a three way to even the slightest bit from something like this. Also was on the ANS site, they have a similar three way for 12.95, would I be better off just to get a brand new one, and if so mine being a '97 do I have to look for any specific 3-way, are they compatible?

With the exception of the backblock and bolt, and the front block and screw, every Cocker part, aftermarket or stock, will fit any year Cocker.

So yes, any 3-way will fit and work on any year Cocker.

I would suggest another 3-way, as the WGP parts kit is roughly $40-$50, and a 3-way is, as you discovered, VERY cheap.

The kit is handy if you plan to rebuild anything on your Cocker, but the majority of the o-rings are for the stock parts, and may not fit aftermarket equipment.

Jordan

Moosepatrol · 04-04-2008, 04:27 PM

Okay got the three way orings replaced and gassed up my cocker (note to self install top hats so I don't have a hose whip my finger again), so it holds air, but back block goes back to cock the gun but stays there. Now a previous post stated this is probably having the hoses in the wrong places correct? Also I think my three way rod might not be catching the front airway on my three way. I read in an autcocker timing guide to push the trigger rod all the way against the three way rod and tighten the allen screws. Is it possible I have also shortened the travel too much?

02-24-2008, 12:19 PM	#3 (permalink)
Railgun MCB Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 2,100	You're onto the whole setup and timing aspect. Cockers are fully adjustable in many ways but that means that there's lots of adjustments to be done. There's a great setup and timing article at Moody Paintball Products in the Tech Arctiles section. It was my bible when I got my first couple of cockers. A hint though. A lot of the adjustments in the later steps are based on what you did in the early steps. So start at #1 and work down. If you need to back track go back and adjust what you need and then redo all the others that come after. A lot of the stuff interacts. Especially the hammer lug and 3way setup points. Step 1 is setting the back block gap..... Oh, one aspect that is mentioned but passed over fairly fast is the cocking rod knob setup. when the ram pushes the back block back you should still be able to grab the cocking rod knob and pull it back another 1/16 to 1/8 inch. If you cannot do that then the thing stopping the ram travel is not the ram but the hammer lug smashing into the back of the lug slot in the body. This is not good. The ram travel is what should limit the back block travel, not the cocking rod and hammer lug. __________________

03-03-2008, 12:38 PM	#6 (permalink)
brycelarson MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Minnesota Posts: 620	Cocker Tech I like this cocker timing guide - same info, just formatted better. may want to bit the bullet and get one of these - you'll find similar kits from many websites. This way you'll have everything you need for the next o-ring that goes. WGP Cocker O-ring Kit by Worr Games, Autococker Gun Upgrades at Paintball Express.com __________________ -Bryce Larson bryce@101010.org Feedback

03-07-2008, 12:01 PM	#8 (permalink)
Phantom Power Pump Gun Dealer Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Pender Island, BC Posts: 1,814	If it's just a slight bit larger, then it'll probably still work but more friction on the 4-way throw will yield a stickier trigger pull. __________________

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

02-24-2008, 03:06 AM	#2 (permalink)
pummel u Newbie Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 15	As far as back block spacing, a gap the thickness of a credit card is good. You want just enough space that the block doesnt slam the body; this could lead to an ugly finish or stripping of the pump arm threads. It is better to have the ram bottom out than to have the ram throw the hammer lug up against the back of the body.