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Old 09-25-2006, 02:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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To mini or not to mini, that is the question.

I got a sweet full sized 2k+ FBM body, and I've decided to build a performance beast. I got it for cheap because the anno on it sucks, so it's going off to get reannoed. I was going to go for low pressure to pinch balls, then I realized the only time my old cocker chopped was when somebody else used it. I like the looks of mini cockers, but want to know what gains/losses I get from going mini. Thanks.
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Old 09-25-2006, 02:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Well.. nowadays with really long barrels and no shrouds.. the only thing you are doing is losing some weight off the body and loosing some internal volume in front of the valve. That's about it. But it will look cool!

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Old 09-25-2006, 03:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Pro's:
slightly less weight
pneu's moved back, can make for better balance in some setups

cons:
loss of air chamber volume
requires some minicocker specific length parts that can be harder to find
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Old 09-25-2006, 03:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
requires some minicocker specific length parts that can be harder to find
The pump rod? Heck you can just cut and thread the regular rod.

I guess the X-way timing rod can be a little tricky, but again you can cut and thread that too.

Those are really the only things I can think of that are mini-specific.... and the solutions aren't all that hard to handle.

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Old 09-25-2006, 06:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I believe the only mini specific parts I would need are a pump arm, timing rod, and a one piece front block/asa (not really needed, but I like the looks better). Are the front block screws specific?
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Old 09-26-2006, 07:19 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Front block screws.. as in the big gas through sucker?

Pre 99 are one thread and anything newer is another.... but here's a secret...

The front blocks for regular cockers and mini's are the same thing! The cocker block has a 1/8NPT grub screw in the bottom, while the mini either has a hose or a ASA in the bottom.. otherwise the block is exactly the same!

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Old 09-26-2006, 07:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Except that if you use a regular front block with a mini ASA, the foregrip will be offset slightly to one side.
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Old 09-26-2006, 10:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I know the regular front block will work. I just like the looks of the one piece, and since this is going to be my baby and I don't plan on ever selling it, I might as well cough up a little extra for the one piece.

It's a 2k+, I was just making sure the length is the same before I go buy one.
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Old 09-28-2006, 03:33 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I built quite a few of them when the originals were harder to find.

Rethreading the pump rod is problematic, since WGP uses rolled threads vs cut threads on their pump rods. What happens is you get low "thread percentage" which means your cocking block will wobble excessively on the pump rod. A decent bolt fit will help to correct this to some degree, but I found it best to either make a whole new pump rod, or shorten the ram end and bend in new bends carefully, and lock-tite the heck out of the front end coupler (not the tip of the ram though...)

My 2 cents, just buy a gucci stainless one from somewhere.

On the plus side, shorthening the receiver, and rethreading the front end is easy, and if you have the mill there you can whip the whole thing out in about an hour.
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Old 09-28-2006, 07:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I'll be getting the mini work done by somebody else. I've already found mini pump arms and timing rods, so I'm set there. I found some one piece frontblocks on compulsive, but they don't have any of the straight ones in black.
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