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-   -   My new cocker. Teach me everything! (http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/wgp/5509-my-new-cocker-teach-me-everything.html)

SuperHiQuality87 10-24-2006 10:08 AM

My new cocker. Teach me everything!
 
Well, the title pretty much explains it. I just got this from Interceptor. I've always loved the look of the *older* snipers/cockers/etc. and thought one day if I ever found one in need of care for cheap, i'd pick it up. Along comes this little girl. Serial number 24923. Seems to me to be stock except for a Hydra venturi bolt and one of the pneumatics hoses. From what I can tell by just studying it, I know for a fact that there seems to be some set screws missing from the rod that goes to the trigger from the 3-way. That shouldn't be hard to fix. Anything else that may be wrong is a mystery. In Interceptors original ad, he noted that the "LP reg leaks"; whatever that means...

What I want to know is pretty much anything and everything. Like, to the point of i dont even know what exactly this is. (sniper II? autococker? i'm not at all familiar with wgp's line) I'd really like to know what year its from too if there is a way to tell by the serial#. I want to know what the optimum way to run this is (bottom line? bottle right in the asa? c02? hydrogen? radon?) It came with a no-name expantion chamber that went into a taso bottom line. Anthing else that I might want to ever know, throw it at me. I'm a beginner, I don't intend to stay there forever. Especially with these damn pneumatics... And one more thing, I want to buy a shroud. This didn't come with one so if anyone has a spare lying around, pm me and I can paypal you.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...cker/right.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...ocker/left.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...pneumatics.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...ker/serial.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...relthreads.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...ocker/bolt.jpg
http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20.../underside.jpg

And I thank you all in advance!
III

Wycke 10-24-2006 11:00 AM

Looks like a nice little 'cocker. Probably about '96 or '97 vintage. That grip frame looks to be billet machined rather than the more common "pot metal" type. You might be able to get it anodized black to match the rest of the gun. If you want to "restore" it to factory specs, PM me. I have a few of those old stock bolts lying around. The set screws for the timing rod coupler should be available at your local hardware store...I think they're either 4-40 or 6-32 cup head set screws. If you can't find 'em locally, PM me...I think I've got a few extras I can send your way. Also, the LPR is the black thing sticking off the front block. Leaking could be due to a worn or damaged seal or the pressure being set too high (they're internally adjustable through the 1/8" NPT nipple on the end that screws into the block). I've got a couple of them in non-leaky condition over in my FS thread.

Since they were set up for high pressure back when this one was made, you don't technically *need* a regulator, but if you're going to run it on CO2, one would come in handy. I'd suggest a PPS Stabilizer. They pop up now & then used, but usually sell quick. Every now & then, PPS puts some on eBay with a Buy It Now price about $5 or $10 below their regular price. Again, they usually go pretty quick. Still, if you can get one, it'll help tremendously with velocity consistency.

-Chad

SuperHiQuality87 10-24-2006 11:31 AM

Hmm... I pm'd you.

Tell me more of this PPS Stab. Where does it go? What exactly does it do? And how do you think this hydra bolt might fare compared to the stock one? Is the hydra any better? any worse?

III

Rayodder 10-24-2006 01:04 PM

It's a early 90's Autococker, you can tell becuase of the missing ball detent, detents were introduced in 95-96 model line, there is no definative way to tell the exact year base on the serial number, the best you can do is ballpark it. Everything appears to stock except the bolt, the frame looks like someone attempted to polish it up a bit.

The leaking LP Reg is is that black thingy on the front block, it is a simple fix of replacing the o-rings.

As far as venturi bolt vs the stock bolt, it really doesn't offer any significant performance gain over the stock one, the only effect the venturi face has is it diffuses the air to lessen the impact on the ball.

Haveblue's Rat's Nesthas a nice Autococker parts diagram, print it out as a poster and pin it on the wall over your work bench.

SuperHiQuality87 10-24-2006 01:19 PM

Hey good stuff. I noticed the absence of a detent so i knew it wasn't going to be too new..

Thanks for that link. It will definatley come in handy.

III

aqua_scummm 10-24-2006 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rayodder (Post 47247)
It's a early 90's Autococker, you can tell becuase of the missing ball detent, detents were introduced in 95-96 model line, there is no definative way to tell the exact year base on the serial number, the best you can do is ballpark it. Everything appears to stock except the bolt, the frame looks like someone attempted to polish it up a bit.

The leaking LP Reg is is that black thingy on the front block, it is a simple fix of replacing the o-rings.

As far as venturi bolt vs the stock bolt, it really doesn't offer any significant performance gain over the stock one, the only effect the venturi face has is it diffuses the air to lessen the impact on the ball.

Haveblue's Rat's Nest has a nice Autococker parts diagram, print it out as a poster and pin it on the wall over your work bench.

you got your URL tags backwards, fixed ;)

Stainlessbutcher 11-02-2006 07:21 PM

One of my favorite things to do with those old rams is polish their internals. Chances are, that ram is quite smooth and needs no work, but if it seems to drag, it's worth taking apart and polishing. Polish the shaft as well since it rides in a seal and can cause friction. I polish the internal "barrel" of the ram with a modified piece of wooden dowel with a slot in it to hold different grits of emory cloth....going progressively finer from about 500 grit to 1000 grit or more. The final polish I do with titanium oxide polishing compound and a cloth gun swab of the appropriate diameter. Believe me, I've made these old things work better than the aftermarket high end clippards and such. Belsales used to do similar things to their customs..they matched and polished parts to get ultimate performance...in today's times, it's almost a necessity to make the most of what you can find for these old gems.

Butcher.

SuperHiQuality87 11-02-2006 10:27 PM

Wow, thats quite detailed work. I don't know if I would possibly be able to stand doing it! haha.. I will keep that in mind though, For now I like the performance.

III

Stainlessbutcher 11-02-2006 10:31 PM

Ya know, I used to have a veritable buttload of those old rams around and somehow they've become distributed throughout MCB to various members. If I ever get a few more, I'll jazz em up and do a friendly 5 dollar plus postage and core exchange deal with you guys wanting to keep the old stock style rams. I personally love those old thangs. (slight edit...the old stock rams can use lower operating pressures due to the area increase on the ram cup.)

Butcher.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SuperHiQuality87 (Post 51651)
Wow, thats quite detailed work. I don't know if I would possibly be able to stand doing it! haha.. I will keep that in mind though, For now I like the performance.

III


SuperHiQuality87 11-02-2006 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stainlessbutcher (Post 51659)
Ya know, I used to have a veritable buttload of those old rams around and somehow they've become distributed throughout MCB to various members. If I ever get a few more, I'll jazz em up and do a friendly 5 dollar plus postage and core exchange deal with you guys wanting to keep the old stock style rams. I personally love those old thangs.

Butcher.

Deal.


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