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Old 02-26-2007, 01:05 PM   #61 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Wycke View Post
Those stock regs weren't standard equipment until about '98 (I think?).
This makes my wonder if my cocker is really an Autococker, or if it is a minicocker, which would explain the very low serial number. I would hate to be living a lie.

How can I tell the difference?
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Old 02-26-2007, 02:04 PM   #62 (permalink)
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You have an Autococker, thats for sure, and its an old one too. You can tell from the square backblock and grips that its older than -97 (assuming they are stock). Minicockers have the front cut so that the frontblock lines up with the barrell, and they have the asa attached directly to the frontblock. They also have shorter pumparms and timing rods, but that isnt as noticable as the frontblock. Hope you can tell from the pic I've included. It also has the backblock and grips that the -97 and newer cockers came with.
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Old 02-26-2007, 02:26 PM   #63 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdawg View Post
This makes my wonder if my cocker is really an Autococker, or if it is a minicocker, which would explain the very low serial number. I would hate to be living a lie.

How can I tell the difference?
As stated, your's is definitely an Autococker. Most likely, the previous owner simply added the inline regulator at some point. Like I said, they didn't start coming with inlines until the late 90s, but a great many people added regs to their older 'Cockers. All I meant was that since regulators were not as common, affordable or readily available in the early 90s (when your gun was made) as they are nowadays, the manufacturers designed them to work on unregulated CO2, which is what 99% of the players of that era used. Unlike HPA tanks, CO2 bottles don't have fixed output pressures. The actual pressure output is based on a number of factors, the most critical of them being the ambient temperature. On a cold (sub-freezing) day, you might only get 2-300 PSI, but on a really hot day (90+ degrees), you'll get 1000+ PSI (burst disks and tanks are rated at 1800 PSI). A good regulator (and that stabilizer is an excellent one for CO2) will eliminate most of these fluctuations, but you have to remember that it can only lower pressure, it can't raise it. If you set the stab to 700 PSI, the pressure going to the valve will stay at 700 PSI so long as the pressure coming into the reg is over 700 PSI. When it gets down to 600 PSI (because the tank is almost empty or the temperature of the surrounding air or the tank itself drops), the regulator is only going to put out 600 PSI.
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Old 02-26-2007, 02:39 PM   #64 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wycke View Post
All I meant was that since regulators were not as common, affordable or readily available in the early 90s (when your gun was made) as they are nowadays, the manufacturers designed them to work on unregulated CO2, which is what 99% of the players of that era used.
Since my power source is HPA fixed at ~750PSI, I wonder if I would have an easier time just use a gas-through grip and using the hammer-spring tension to adjust velocity...

Update: yep, I was able to get two shots in the neighborhood of 250FPS... I cranked the spring tension way up and got 340-350 FPS. Then one of the microlines to the ram blew, and I ran out of air But, the good news is that now I just have to find the right spring tension to get 270-280 FPS.

So... be the lookout for a palmer's stabilizer FS

Last edited by sdawg; 02-26-2007 at 03:38 PM.
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Old 03-02-2007, 12:48 AM   #65 (permalink)
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2k2 custom milled & anodized vert mech WGP Autococker

Front block:
Matching anodized front block
Chrome Banjo front block bolt
STO Ram
Kapp Rhino LPR
WGP CT 3-way
Clear hoses

Gripframe:
Chrome Planet Eclipse hinge frame
Custom smoke mirror grips by Dark Seoul

Body:
Milled WGP vert body
Matching anodized back block
Matching anodized WGP vert body
Orracle bolt and pin
Shocktech cocking rod
Kapp rebuildable detent
CCM straight pump arm
Orracle internal set (springs, valve, hammer, and IVG)
Custom Product shorty inline reg
Custom Product 2k5 on/off
Custom Product rail

Barrel:
Stainless steel Freak back
Matching Anodized 12" All American Freak front
Full Freak insert kit
Custom Product 14" .689 one piece

Extra(s):
Matching anodized WGP inline regulator
WGP houge grips
Dye sticky
Gloss black Benchmark 45* slider frame with polished sear & trigger plate (super smooth)
Custom trigger frame spring kit
Chrome trigger shoe
BNIB CCM all black hardware 2k+ pump kit

Coming soon:
FBM Factory pressed on clamping feedneck

Pictured with Benchmark 45* slider frame:


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Old 03-02-2007, 12:54 AM   #66 (permalink)
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Sirsaechao- You definatly need to get better pic of that anno. From what I can tell it looks stunning.

-Jake
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Old 03-03-2007, 06:34 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Before:


After:


I kinda regret doing it to the RDL body but it already had eyes, so cutting it up more didn't seem so bad. I'll just try to pick up another RDL body and keep that mech.

This is my mech:


Last edited by louie; 03-03-2007 at 06:38 PM.
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Old 03-03-2007, 06:50 PM   #68 (permalink)
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so your rdl is half-blocked, but the back half of the block isn't removed? i haven't seen that before, a very cool (and clean) look! nice anno.
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Old 03-03-2007, 07:16 PM   #69 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottieb View Post
so your rdl is half-blocked, but the back half of the block isn't removed? i haven't seen that before, a very cool (and clean) look! nice anno.
The RDL is mid-blocked. Mid-blocking lets you preserve the look of the body more than a half-blocking.
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Old 03-03-2007, 11:35 PM   #70 (permalink)
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Recent ebay win;

A Merlin equipped with a Belsales front end, Eclipse hinge, and an old Vigilante reg. The Dye is a 14" threaded Ti, I've got a 12" .686 glued boomstick coming to complement it. I've also got an old front shroud to protect the pneumatics for woods play.



And a fishbone mech. ANS front end, frame, and reg, PPS dual ported, wedgited barrel.



A little dark, but closer;
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