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| | #21 (permalink) |
| Supernatural Anaesthetist | If by "these" you mean the ANS IVG and a stock hammer, then yes, they'll work fine. Get those and a 'Cocker spring kit and you should be all set. Standard "Nelson" springs might not be quite the right length, but and set made for Autocockers will work. |
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| | #22 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 202
| Wow thread jacked... Anywase got some pics up These are the bodies that i got http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4364209 http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4364208 This is what i mean by no threading it you havnt figured it out yet http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4364204 http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=4364203 The one good this that came from being thread jacked is that pic, I see at the back of his internals he does have another bolt looking thing, thats got the spring coming off it that im geussing is the old style ivg im looking for? Well i didnt find anything like that in my bag of parts i got and i know how hard its gonna be to find that so do you think i would be able to thread the back of the bottom hold to fit a newer style ivg and use the standard springs as opposed to sheridan springs? I held up my ivg to the hole and it seems their is room to do it with but is their any unseen things that might happen from me doing this? Also note the HUGE vert asa adaptor thats on one of the panther bodies (panther was milled into after the fact dont go looking all over for some body youve never heard of) I'm having trouble finding one of those too, anyone know someone with a large parts box that might have one? |
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| | #23 (permalink) |
| MCB Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 4,249
| Holy smokes those panther bodies are awesome. Totally chunky. I personally think you should keep em stock and just find an old RVA. A WTB ad here should net you a few quickly. As for that vert asa...I'm sorry but I've never seen one like it. |
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| | #24 (permalink) |
| Beard Enthusiast | http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ANS-Autocock...QQcmdZViewItem Is this the ANS IVG we speak of? If so, this guy has 87 in stock. |
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| | #25 (permalink) | |
| MCB Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Texas
Posts: 1,469
| Quote:
__________________ Later, John My Current FS listing: http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/m...-new-post.html MY Want To Buy: http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/w...king-back.html My feed back: http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=1021 Carter's Commando Texas Division: http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/c...-division.html | |
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| | #26 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 428
| The only hammer kits available today that will work with these bodies are the super expensive, but insanely nice REX sidewinder hammer kit from Belsales (available from CompulsivePaintball.com), the AKA kits (from their site) and I think ANS has a rip-off of the rex kit. I have one, but it doesn't adjust. I ended up using the hammer and an old sheridan adjuster in my Sniper. You can find the AKA kits for fairly cheap, but if you want something with good adjustablility and a very smooth kit, go with Belsales. Anonym
__________________ Bleeding Paint and Sweating CO2 since 1988! |
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| | #28 (permalink) |
| Hired Goon Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Marshfield, WI
Posts: 229
| If you just need the rear adjuster I can whip up a few on the lathe for a few bucks each. I had to make one for a Sniper 1 I restored. They'll use Sheridan springs though. American Paintball has the springs for $2 each: http://www.rcpaintball.biz/e-commerc...-catalog6.html Palmer's also has them for $4 each. Here's a pic of the one I made: ![]() PM me if you're interested. |
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| | #29 (permalink) |
| Active Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Southern Indiana
Posts: 428
| Wow, Chris! That's nice!! Is it stainless? I'm currently using Sheridan springs in my Sniper, but I'm dealing with the soft aluminum one that came stock. It's not bad, but I wish someone would whip something up similar to the worm drive on the Rex kits for Sheridan springs. I get irritated using two hollow locks to keep it locked down. One always backed out on me. Anonym
__________________ Bleeding Paint and Sweating CO2 since 1988! |
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| | #30 (permalink) |
| Hired Goon Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Marshfield, WI
Posts: 229
| It's just aluminum. To keep the hollow lock nut from backing out you could use a combination of things. Purple loctite would be best. You could also drill and tap it for a nylock. A little teflon tape would also work. |
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