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    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4310920

    Comment


    • Spider!

      Spider!

      commented
      Editing a comment
      Did you put the slits in? You could post it back on thingiverse as a ,,,, remix. Had to think there.

      The original is good for plain ninja flex. The slits should be good in stiffer TPU.

    My first 3d design for paintball, the first 2 ball hopper with speedfeed for a Trracer
    when you dont want a single shot but dont want a hopper too!
    shown here with ReconSWS Backslide (he have a new nickname now but I dont remember it)

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    Complete kit with cut barrel and CCI bucket charger
    Last edited by Alexndl; 02-26-2022, 04:18 PM.

    Comment


    • jeramiej

      jeramiej

      commented
      Editing a comment
      That is awesome. I love the concept.

    Made a sled for a midblock Orracle body I had for sale
    thread is cut with a tap, not printed (need to learn how to model those on Freecad).
    printed in PLA+, 0.18mm, 6 wall layer (so no infill)

    The one on thingiverse (by BMC) did not fit a body that was not milled through. Also the thickness was not big enough for a smooth operation

    Need to create a profile and will be sharing this model. Let me know if you want it sooner.

    Will make another model for my Aim Prototype

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    Comment


    • Spider!

      Spider!

      commented
      Editing a comment
      I end up tapping smaller modeled threads anyway. Size, layers, shrinkage, and stringing are part of it.

    Something Rainmaker might have a use for, some plain, fat, phantom grip panels; https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5254099

    Click image for larger version

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    Feedback

    https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...der-s-feedback

    Comment


      Take 2 of a 10 round feed elbow. Need to work on the diameters and print quality, looks good but didn’t fit.


      Comment


        Started prototyping a stacked tube nelson design (one piece body/feed), plenty more to come. CCI components currently shown on the valve but plan to change those.



        Click image for larger version  Name:	20220220_202829.jpg Views:	0 Size:	4.58 MB ID:	234466
        Attached Files
        Last edited by Lane; 02-21-2022, 09:36 AM. Reason: Uploaded addtional photo

        Comment


        • XEMON

          XEMON

          commented
          Editing a comment
          Looks nice.
          Are you planning on pressurizing that valve body?

        • Lane
          Lane commented
          Editing a comment
          Nope, broke off the depress boss in the print before screwing in the tank to make sure that didn't happen.

        • XEMON

          XEMON

          commented
          Editing a comment
          It wont stay pressurized for long otherwise :P

          I like where this is going ...

        Click image for larger version

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        Resin printing is kind of a pain in the butt compared to FDM.


        Comment


          When you have an extra body, valve and sear you might as well print a new grip, rail, grip panels and design a mag adapter

          Click image for larger version

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          Comment


          • Alexndl

            Alexndl

            commented
            Editing a comment
            I love it!
            You only need a spare valve and body to make a new mag out of the parts bin...

          • Rainmaker

            Rainmaker

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Hey! i recognize that partial logo on the one side there. what was the original model you used? Glad you found a use for it!

          • crazedloon

            crazedloon

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Yup, blatantly stolen. Used your reverse feed block so I wouldn't have to muck around with internal feed ramp and added the magwell (also stolen) and a simple dirty feedneck coupler in tinkercad. Not fancy but it works.

          Trying to come up with a cheap PGP K-frame... so far so good. Working on an idea for a plastic/metal hybrid sear and trigger.

          Rainmaker's feedback: https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...maker-feedback

          Comment


          • Mechstar

            Mechstar

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Fantastic! One vote for a Palmers length one also when you have the kinks worked out.
            I absolutely recommend having an option for doing the final product in the “versatile Nylon” or similar SLS or MJF process from Shapeways or iMaterialize type of place. I know it costs a LOT more, but I would gladly pay the $100ish dollars for the print + profit, along with whatever additional for the internals to be able to have that option.
            Not saying FDM won’t be strong enough for PGP’s and PMI-1’s, but For Nasty double barrel brass markers, it would be cool to have the SLS option.

          • Rainmaker

            Rainmaker

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Printed a sear and trigger... actually functions! though the plastic sear probably wouldn't last long...

            https://youtu.be/QL1T-ekJzg4

          • Rainmaker

            Rainmaker

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Trying out this shapeways thing...

            https://www.shapeways.com/shops/rainmakerpb

          Bee doing some accessories for my "new" 1936 lathe.
          ​​​​​
          Attached Files
          Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

          XEMON's phantom double sided feed

          Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
          My Feedback

          Comment


          • Spider!

            Spider!

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Which bed clamp is that? I need a better one.

          • XEMON

            XEMON

            commented
            Editing a comment
            Its this one: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2824622
            Credit where its due, it seam to work extremely well for my S9 ... just had to shave my 10-32 insert for teh retaining screw ...

          I've wanted a custom faceshield for my virtue Vio ever since I got it and noticed it can be replaced. I have some tpu sitting around to print it in the end, but for now it's prototyping in pla.

          Not bad for my first attempt. Made a few adjustments and V2 is now printing. While it's doing that, I can draw up some vent patterns.
          Attached Files
          Hire Me

          Comment


          • BrickHaus

            BrickHaus

            commented
            Editing a comment
            And I just realized you arent in the US. Yeah they may let it fly, but here in the states any mask modification can technically render your mask unusable.

          • devilzcall
            devilzcall commented
            Editing a comment
            I'm not touching the lens or frame, so I'm not too worried about catastrophic faillure; But I'm definitely going to stress test the everliving shit out of this.

          • Spider!

            Spider!

            commented
            Editing a comment
            I'm pretty sure a tpu version will be plenty tough. Something in the 90s for a durometer would be more stiff than JT flex bottoms and close to many stock bottoms.

          Super late to the game. purchased a mk3s+ for xmas. came in 2-3 weeks in January. First decent print on it. Still tweaking my z height, but It works and looks like it is supposed to.



          Bearded Works Facebook
          Bearded Works Group
          Bearded Works Youtube
          Email

          I buy Automags and Parts: if your looking to let something go, shoot me a pm

          Comment


          My magnetic sweeper decided to breakup with the handle ... So I had to intervene
          Click image for larger version

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          Love my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...

          XEMON's phantom double sided feed

          Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
          My Feedback

          Comment


            Place nuts in slots!

            I've been making an end stop for my mini lathe. I'm using embedded nuts for threads, setting the print to pause for the inserts. On the second iteration I forgot to mark the nuts to make sure they line up, and of course they didn't line up.🙄 Other than that, it has been working nicely. I've also used the different infill for parts on the same bed, since the knob could be pretty light.




            Feedback

            https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...der-s-feedback

            Comment


              Cram n jam so I can play stock class with my ccm Click image for larger version  Name:	20220314_182509.jpg Views:	0 Size:	3.08 MB ID:	245577
              Gas, Grass or Brass, no one rides for free...

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