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Made a pair of shades for the landscaping lights that point straight into the bedroom window. They block just the window, and let the rain drain off the lens.
So, I did end up printing this, so I'll bring it in over to this thread. I'm calling it the P-MEK, or maybe the Pumpback (kinda looks like a humpback whale?), something like that. The idea being a mechanical mechanism to kiiiinda make the EMEK kiiiinda like a pump.
This is V1, and its... ok. It was supposed to work like the thumb lever pump on a thumper, and it kinda does. Pump stroke is a very short forward motion. But the force on the slider block is applied from the side, so when you pump it, the slider block cocks sideways a decent amount. I can still get the ball to drop into the slider block, and it actually does function! But I think I'll rework this into more of a "pivoting" block instead of a sliding block.
Also, it is possible to pump once and chamber a ball, and then pump a second time which puts one ball into the slider block in the "on deck" position. So you could then shoot two balls in a row. I think if I reverse the block so that the "at rest" position of the block is not directly over the feed hole, then I can fix that problem.
Once again not paintball related but hey, this is the very first print on printer number 5 (in 7 months). Hi, I’m Tony and I have a 3D printer addiction.
Funny thing is, the 4 other printers I purchased after my Ender 3 V2 total less than the retail cost of the one shown here! I will have to do a separate post to let my cat out of the bag.
This was printed on my FLSun Super Racer.
printed at 150% scale full default settings. 3h 56m. That would have been about 9 on the Ender.
Pivoting version printed. It's much better than the sliding block version. I think some of my tolerances are off though, the spring isn't able to fully return the block. I think I'll re-print the block tomorrow, with a tad more clearance.
Siress pointed out your barrel, but it looks like the trick there is the printed cocker thread adapter. How is that working? I used to whittle those out very slowly on a lathe.
SiressSpider! It's a brass F1 barrel with a printed adapter bit. The tricky part was that the adapter is really thin, only 2 or 3 shells were possible to print in the thinnest spots. So after ensuring the fitment was perfect, i ended up epoxying the adapter onto the barrel. I haven't "fielded" it yet, but it's holding up well so far! The brass of the F1 barrel extends all the way through the adapter bit, so the cocker threads are really just epoxied onto the outside of the F1 barrel, so still really rigid with the brass "core" of the original barrel.
Printed a front grip for my HK Army Amp. First time using TPU (Nova Maker) lots of stringing but after clean up it came out pretty good. Used Tinker Cad to modify an existing grip I found on Thingiverse.
VM detents, the first of a few crosman valve seals, then a custom box with some off the thingiverse shelf Star Wars Sabacc credits. Still working on the copper color coins.
Printed myself a round thing. It has a few shelves that came out pretty good, but there is a strand or two on the next overhanging layer that sag a little. Supports held up most of it though.
I have 14 pinball machines on location between 2 locations. I pull all the bi-centennial quarters I spot (just because), and then also the silver ones. In the last 7 years I have pulled 6 silvers. Just pulled my oldest one yet a few weeks ago. 1952. The rest are early 60’s.
Its a V-block on a Morse taper.
It's to drill pipe and tubes on center the easy way on the lathe.
I tried it, and it's un-usable without clamp holding the part in place (as do all the store bought metal ones). But it would do exactly what I needed if it had those clamp, so I turned around and bought a proper metal one.
This print served it's purpose, I needed to know if I should invest a bit for a proper fixture or if they were more gimmick ... They work if you got a lathe and no mill 👍
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