Idk why I haven't done this before
Mags like oil, be sure to oil enough, and often, several drops in the asa before airing it up before each day of play should be sufficient, I use autolube or similar
Your fromt frame scew should be tight, but not super tight, and your thumbscrew that holds the valve in should only be finger tight, if u need an allen to remove it, its too tight( some after market or super ULE rails may be an exception to this rule)
Always be sure your rail has a rail bushing, this keeps everything lined up nicely
When aired up, the sear rod should not touch the back of the trigger, a very small gap is needed, but not too much, you can adjust the rod by turning it with a pair of pliers
Mags need HP air and 850psi and above is a requiremnt
Now, you oil your mag, you put your hp output tank on your gun, and when the marker airs up, its leaking...
Also if you get air coming out the back of the regulator it could be the reg seat. If replacing that doesnt fix your leak (may be accompanied by barrel farting) then your valve piston is probably bad.
Air whooshing down the barrel can also be caused by a bad sear. your sear should have a pointed edge where it catches the bolt. If the edge is rounded, then it is no good.
If you pull the trigger and it stops, its the powertube, if it continues, it can be the on/off
check the on/off for worn orings and replace even if they don't look worn also remember too short an on/off pin may cause problems and rapid fire, some people shave on/off pins for reactivity so be sure check on/off pin lengths for your particular set up
Heres some quick specs for the sear rod and on/off pin length Emag/Xmag
On/Off pin: .712" w/ brass top and double o-ring top.
.725" w/ aluminum top and single o-ring top.
Trigger Rod: 2.125"
Solenoid Plunger Rod: 3.005" RT-Pro:
On/Off Pin: .765"
Trigger Rod: 1.985" Retro Valve/X-Valve/Classic RT:
On/Off Pin: .750" Automag Classic/Minimag:
On/Off Pin: .750"
Trigger Rod: 1.985" Lvl 7
Well the copper spring that originally came in the lvl 7 bolt kits sucked, get a spacer kit and insert the .220 spacer, be sure you have the proper o ring in the powertube and check your powertube tip oring for wear or nicks
The .220 spacer fixes most problems but you can fine tune with the additional spacers or if by chance that spacer doesn't work
Always make sure your spring isn't too worn and you don't have your velocity too high/ low, if its too high it may vent out of the back of the valve lvl X
Remove the bolt and powertube tip, now take your thumbscrew and insert it into the powertube, its a fast way to pull your shims/spacer/oring out, set the shims( if any) aside, be sure there is a small washer at the bottom of the powertube
Now take your spacer kit, remove all the orings from inside all of them, take one oring, and this is the oring you will use for this tuning, and only this oring
Its important to use only one oring because of the variation between the orings will give you differing results making tuning a headache
Now take a spacer and insert the oring into it, place it into the powertube, with the oring facing the valve, and take your bolt, insert the bolt and lift the bolt and valve up, if the weight of the bolt slides the bolt off the spacer/oring, then its too small, you want the spacer/oring that will hold the valve to the bolt enough to where a slight wiggle makes the valve release from the bolt, if the valve sticks to the bolt and won't easily wiggle loose, its too tight
Using the same oring for every spacer find the proper spacer and install, now place 3 shims in after the spacer and replace the powertube tip, checking the oring from wear or damage
Air up and fire, if everything was done right you should have a properly tuned anti chop bolt
Now degas and remove one shim at a time, untill your marker leaks, then replace a shim, now you've set up your level X
Remember the spring you will want to use is the gold spring, the other 2 red and silver springs are for fine tunining
Heres a link to the lvl X pictorial and spacer sizes X-mag User Guide – Level 10
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