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Old 05-21-2018, 09:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
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New RT mag owner - advice?

Hi Guys,

So I won a '96 RT Mag at the raffle at Slim's spring stock classic - cool! I have owned a couple mags way back when, but I've never really done a full breakdown on them before and I've never shot anything with an RT valve. I probably won't use it too often since it's not a pump, but I'd like to mess around with it a bit for fun.

What do I need to know? What should I be prepared for? Should I go ahead and get a Level 10 kit? Do I need a higher-output tank or will a preset be okay?

Guide me!

Thanks,
Jonny
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Old 05-21-2018, 10:04 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Unless it's been serviced, I would certainly go ahead and order the full rebuild for it. May consider going ahead with a spring pack and LX bolt kit as well. Make sure to find the updated LX kit with the good quality smaller o rings on the carriers. If you chose not to LX, just have a fast loader.

Once rebuilt, if you stay L7 bolt, the only issue you may have are chops. I would say that IF you stay L7, a fixed high output tank should be fine. IF you LX, get an adjustable that will run 1000-1200 output for some REAL fun fast shooting and lawnmower sounds.
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Old 05-21-2018, 10:20 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Unless it's been serviced, I would certainly go ahead and order the full rebuild for it. May consider going ahead with a spring pack and LX bolt kit as well. Make sure to find the updated LX kit with the good quality smaller o rings on the carriers. If you chose not to LX, just have a fast loader.

Once rebuilt, if you stay L7 bolt, the only issue you may have are chops. I would say that IF you stay L7, a fixed high output tank should be fine. IF you LX, get an adjustable that will run 1000-1200 output for some REAL fun fast shooting and lawnmower sounds.
I am ignorant as to the history/recent maintenance of the gun, but it looks absolutely pristine - 9.8/10. I bet it either sat in a box or was someone's wall-hanger.

I figured a full rebuild would be a smart first move so I'll go ahead and get that for sure. I was considering sticking to L7, just to keep it simple. I have a Spire, would that keep up? If the LX really works as well as folks say it does I suppose it would be a good investment. Should I just order all of these parts directly from AGD?

Thanks!
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Old 05-21-2018, 10:43 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Present at 850 or more will be fine. Put a couple of drops of oil in the ASA, air it up, and if it doesn't leak don't touch it. You may not need to rebuild anything on it at all. I have seen mags that were ran for 10s of thousands of rounds with little to no maintenance beyond cleaning the barrels and oil. A lvlx will help with potential chops and if you want to shoot fast it is worth it. If you aren't using it to rt, the lvl 7 with a good hopper is just fine too. AGD or Tuna are your best parts sources for sure.
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Old 05-21-2018, 10:46 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Congrats on the marker!
Definitely a rebuild kit straight from AGD would be what i’d do.
The only issue I’ve ever had chopping with a level 7 was from me short-stroking.
And “keeping it simple” is the main reason I’ve never gone the level 10 route .. someday though!
Enjoy it and paint some faces!
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Old 05-21-2018, 10:59 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks everyone, really appreciate the quick feedback.

After talking to Hobbes and you guys I think I'm going to just gas her up tonight and see what happens. I'll order a parts kit either way just to have it, but I'm going to K.I.S.S. and just start with L7. I don't generally shoot that fast and the extra tuning is not sexy to me.

I'm sure I'll be back
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:00 AM   #7 (permalink)
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That looked to be a fairly early gun. I'm not sure it has the normal (current) searpin. I suspect it has a dowel pin held in by two setscrews. I would be very interested in seeing pictures of it disassembled to see if I'm right.

One part you will want to swap is the powerfeed plug, Alot of the blender reputation came from the original plugs being made wrong. You will want a parabolic plug.
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:06 AM   #8 (permalink)
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You said you won't use it much, so with that in mind.

I'd put some oil in the ASA, air it up and see what happens.
If you are using a force feed hopper with it and it doesn't leak I don't know that there is any need to go any further unless you want to.
I think a modern force feed hopper will solve all the problems that the Level 10 and parabolic feed plug address.

Fix any problems you find when you air it up. After that it's all bells and whistles.
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cougar20th View Post
That looked to be a fairly early gun. I'm not sure it has the normal (current) searpin. I suspect it has a dowel pin held in by two setscrews. I would be very interested in seeing pictures of it disassembled to see if I'm right.

One part you will want to swap is the powerfeed plug, Alot of the blender reputation came from the original plugs being made wrong. You will want a parabolic plug.
Yeah Hobbes already gave me the lowdown on the parabolic plugs, I'm checking it now.

If I end up having to do a full breakdown I'll take pictures for you Cougar.
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:14 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Check the feed plug for a flat area. It was the early feed plugs that gave mags a "paint blender" reputation for a while. The new ones are available from AGD for $7 or $9 and work great. There's a pic around here somewhere...[hah, "thirded"]

After a new set of o-rings, RT valves tend to not bounce much for the next few cases of paint. Once they are worn in, they will usually be consistent until the o-rings get old and start to fail again, which is a long time.

The bounce rate is highly dependent on the bottle pressure and flow and the on/off pin length. A high pressure bottle with any kind of flow restriction will not bounce as well as a regular 850 psi bottle that flows well and has a clear set of fittings to go through.

While on the heavy side compared to newer markers, with the level 10 and newer feeders and HPA systems, they are very effective at large games.
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