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Old 03-09-2012, 04:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Autococker valves

Probably a simple question but I am not finding an answer easily today. I have 2 old (92-93) cockers I am rebuilding. If I am going to replace or rebuild the valves what should I look for? Are these valves pretty standard or am I going to be screwed trying to find parts?

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Old 03-09-2012, 06:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I think you'll be able to find valves pretty easy. Heck, cruise the BST section here, you'll find a buttload of parts. I don't think valves are all that exclusive to model, aside from the trilogy cockers.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:05 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the valves themselves are standard (there's no appreciable difference in the valve shape and seal, even though the valves themsleves had changed a lot over the years), there was a change in '97 that increased the volume area behind the valve... but you should be able to stick a valve from 2003 into a autococker body from 1993.

Have fun with the rebuild!
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Ideally you want the old pre-2k valves that have the smaller face opening. The 2k+ (and many other aftermarket valves prior) were designed for lower pressure (200-400 PSI or so) and have a larger valve face opening. This means that if you're above this pressure range, the valve won't open properly. The old valves with the small face opening can open properly at higher pressures and would even allow you to run direct co2 with no reg. That said, they both will physically fit in the gun, it's just a matter of tuning the springs and pressure to whatever valve you put in.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:22 PM   #5 (permalink)
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The old valves were "full pressure" friendly with a smaller diameter seat and seal. These work well with direct CO2 or direct HPA or with regulators set up for higher output pressure. Later valves went to a larger diameter seat opening and seal and were more easily tuned to lower operating pressures.

Folks that like to make up 12'ie bucket powered pumps where the 12 and bucket changer is where a regulator would normally sit prefer the small old style valves as they were more efficient at how they metered the gas and they can get more shots per 12'ie.

Your rebuild efforts will depend on what has been done to these autocockers over the years. If they are still setup for the old regs with their typical higher than 400 psi operating points then likely the valves are the old small opening types. If someone changed them over to newer regs and set them up for low pressure operation then likely the valves where swapped out.

Sorry, my stuff is packed still from my move and awaiting renos before it all comes out again. But hopefully someone can measure and report on the diameter of the early higher pressure and later low pressure valves. I know it's easy to see the difference when side by side. But without measurements it's tough to see.
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Old 03-10-2012, 05:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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All very helpful information. Thank you
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Old 03-10-2012, 11:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If you are looking for an older valve shoot me a pm.
I have a few of them kicking around.
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:58 AM   #8 (permalink)
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It is my intention to move away from CO2 and into HPA, I already have regulators for them to do this so I can probably go with the newer lower pressure style of valves (If I understand MaD and Railgun properly) Right now the older style valves are in there but the condition is unknown. I plan to air them up this week after I get the rest of my parts and we will see what happens. (this will be the first time in 18 years these guys have seen any pressure so it could be interesting)
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:03 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Here is a link to use when identifying some factory/aftermarket parts.
Autococker Parts Identification Guide Photo Gallery by Kenneth MacDowell at pbase.com
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Old 03-28-2012, 10:46 AM   #10 (permalink)
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One area that gets you messed up is taking a high pressure body to lower pressure. They weren't particularly ported for flow and had some small spaces in the body for storing gas for the shot. When you get on the wrong side of that, the lube condition in your HPR starts to show up on the chronograph; it's really annoying.

As your porting throughout gets bigger and smoother, you get to count on volume in the ASA and front block. As the pressure goes lower, you may need a softer (urethane) poppet seal. Delrin works but is a little susceptible to scratching. Urethane can seal with some silly bad damage.
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