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Old 12-28-2012, 11:34 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dukie View Post
You could also put your four jaw on the bed of the mill and clamp it down. that would give you four points of contact instead of 3 with a single vblock.
My chucks aren't big enough. I thought about that.

Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll see what I can come up with and I will take pictures. It might be 5 years from now, but I will (c:
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:04 AM   #22 (permalink)
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When I was drilling pool balls for pump handles I used a few different set ups but I finally got someone with a CNC mill to cut me some blocks with a dish cut out of them to fit the pool balls perfectly. At first, I used...wood! Works ok but the aluminum was better.

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Old 12-29-2012, 12:04 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Two equal V blocks, 2 big ole C clamps and a piece of oak in the center to support the bottom tangency point on the ball Lock the blocks in the vice and hope the clamping pressure doesn't cause a big crack. Lacking that one V with a rubber tipped set screw and a very careful placement/cutting.


Just my two cents.
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:38 AM   #24 (permalink)
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I've used wood when necessary in work-holding and dampening applications, but only as a last resort. For this particular job: If I didn't have a means to make soft jaws manually (I do, it's called a boring head), I would make two cups on the lathe: they would be cupped to fit the ball, flat on the other end. mill for relief as necessary and go from there... this would work fine. Look like so:

_______
|------/
|-----/
|-----\
|_____\ X2

basically. I'd not bother radiusing the inside, just a clean taper with boring bar then polish it... so it doesn't mark the part. (the dashes are just to take up spaces, not hidden detail or anything)
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Old 01-01-2013, 07:41 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Just use some steel tube pretty much same as above prob .120 thick at least use some cardboard so you don't mark the ball up double thick just in case, make sure there are no sharp edges and its as square as possible. The bigger the dia of pipe you use the better hold you will have. just make sure you have your work area exposed. and take small cuts use several steps to get up to the dia you need and make damn sure your bits are sharp and not melting the acrylic. Too much speed will also melt it I would prob start around 2k rpm's and go from there.
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:53 PM   #26 (permalink)
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All else being equal, the black walnut is probably more expensive than the mahogany. At least, there is such a thing as cheap mahogany, not so much black walnut. I miss my black walnut trees.
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Old 01-02-2013, 05:10 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arjames View Post
Just use some steel tube pretty much same as above prob .120 thick at least use some cardboard so you don't mark the ball up double thick just in case, make sure there are no sharp edges and its as square as possible. The bigger the dia of pipe you use the better hold you will have. just make sure you have your work area exposed. and take small cuts use several steps to get up to the dia you need and make damn sure your bits are sharp and not melting the acrylic. Too much speed will also melt it I would prob start around 2k rpm's and go from there.
Yea, tube/hollow bar would work nicely, quicker to prep on the lathe too
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