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Old 05-10-2017, 02:17 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Hose & barb question.

Hello.

I would like to know if cocker hose & barbs would work on an Intimidator. I'm having issues finding a standard size hose kit and I don't want to purchase a high-flow kit unless I absolutely have to (fixing the Timmy for someone else, so cost is a factor). Or does anyone still sell standard sized Timmy hose/barb kits? I can't find any aside from on eBay and I'd prefer not to deal with that.

If it matters, it is a 2k1 that looks like it has been 2k2'd. Trig frame, LPR, and front block are all 2k2. Not sure on the board and other innards. Had a leaky barb and ended up snapping it off.

This has probably been asked before, but I'm finding conflicting answers in my searching. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks for reading.
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Old 05-10-2017, 02:39 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I believe the barbs on the Eblade cocking solenoid housing are the same thread.
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Old 05-19-2017, 06:31 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply. I ended up springing for a high-flow kit. Man, it sucks when you want factory parts for old guns.
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Old 05-26-2017, 03:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Caught it late, but for reference, yes, 'cocker hose is the same ID as the original classic timmy hose. Barbs are M3 threaded 1/16" OD, high flow kits are 5/64" ID hose OD for barbs. You can get either pretty cheap on ebay.
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Old 05-29-2017, 06:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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OK! I'll keep this for reference if I'm ever stuck doing this again. Thanks.
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Old 06-14-2017, 11:14 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hi all, sorry to revive an old thread, but I live in Canada and shipping costs from all the good US paintball supply places have gone wayy up in the past year or so.

What I got from the above is that you can use regular old autococker hose on old bob long high flow barbs - does this include the barbs on alias intimidators?

Thank you and sorry if I'm beating a dead horse. Just trying to make sure im doing this correct before I spend $30 on parts.

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Old 06-15-2017, 12:40 PM   #7 (permalink)
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If need be, yes, but you're looking at sluggish cycles, a haard time getting the hose on the barbs and messing with the dwell. High flow barbs came standard on later 2k2 timmies and all following models, those are 5/64" OD (for 5/64" ID hose), where 'cocker hose is 1/16" ID, so it'll flow considerably less than high flow hose. 5/64" or 2mm ID urethane tubing rated to 120+ PSI is what you're looking for; like this: 5/32 OD x 5/64 ID Polyurethane Tubing - Bimba Manufacturing
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Old 06-16-2017, 01:06 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Thank you! A follow up question: do autococker barbs and bob long barbs use the same threading? Ie: could I screw high flow barbs into a cocker 3-way, or cocker barbs into an alias? Are they both M3 threaded?

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Old 06-21-2017, 01:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsGunShow View Post
Thank you! A follow up question: do autococker barbs and bob long barbs use the same threading? Ie: could I screw high flow barbs into a cocker 3-way, or cocker barbs into an alias? Are they both M3 threaded?

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Depends on the model, most WGP 3-ways are threaded 6-40, some from other brands are threaded M3 or 3-48 and some rams and most LPR's are threaded 10-32. Rather than getting M3 threaded for all, I'd look at getting 5/64" OD barbs in their respective threads for each if possible (some of the 3-ways that use 3-48 barbs, have them set so close, that it's the only size thread you can fit on there without having barbs bump into each other).

On the other side of the coin, I have drilled and tapped BL front blocks and sleeves for 10-32 threads, and other than having to make a bit more space in the frame for the barb's shoulder, I was able to run 3/32" hose to and from the solenoid (using crankwalk barbs on the solenoid, if you're on IOG, you'll understand what they are; if not, they're the best m3 barbs I ever bought, crank's no longer selling though); on paper, that's overkill for a solenoid with a Cv of 0.12 (Mac43), but I'll test it and make sure before I go back to 5/64" hose.

But I digress, if you want better flow without permanent mods to either marker, stick to the proper factory thread sizes.
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