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Old 01-28-2019, 12:13 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Ion woes

I was gifted an Ion a little while ago and it came with a "blown casket or maybe tubing issues" said my pro shop. He said he did not want to fix it so I am trying to get it functioning or out of my closet. Is there any value or hope in fixing it? I am going through a cleansing of my closet and am trying to get everything up and running or out.

Any help would be appreciated, as I am completely new to ions
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Old 01-28-2019, 12:28 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Ions as stock are typically easy to fix. Tubing leaks are nothing. O rings fix most (other), unless it has a tech T bolt, then you need specific magical orings.

If you were gifted/cheap when you got it, fix it. They are great little shooters.
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Old 01-28-2019, 12:39 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I will try my best! It will probably go to sh#t though...
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That being said, if you call yourself out on a bounce shot (knowing it was skill that hit you and "luck" that saved you) , you may qualify for sainthood.
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Old 01-28-2019, 04:26 AM   #4 (permalink)
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They're usually pretty easy to fix, just a PITA to take apart and reassemble. They can shoot really good, especially with a couple aftermarket parts. The new Shocker is pretty much the ion with a few minor changes.
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Old 01-28-2019, 10:49 AM   #5 (permalink)
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They're usually pretty easy to fix, just a PITA to take apart and reassemble.
I would say, in respect to that, the single best thing you can do to an Ion is to get a Bolt Out Back body kit. The later iterations of that marker came with it, as they realized what they had done. That alone made the rest of the disassembly mute for most situations. Be aware that most of the aftermarket bolts kits are from doing absolutely nothing to actually introducing or setting up for problems (ahem, fire bolt) (aforementioned Tech T).

Aside from that, I would consider a clamping feed if not already equipped, a decent barrel, and possibly (maybe) a QEV. The stock board isn't really bad. Most folks set a marker to a specific setting and don't mess with it. I personally found it handy to print a small settings cheat and taped it inside the grip panel. The stock reg for these is a bit of a PITA for adjustment, but if not damaged are a superb super low pressure reg.
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Old 01-28-2019, 11:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Yes be careful when taking it apart, I've seen people snap the board in half, strip the threading out of the frame, crush banjo bolts and overall just break more parts than whatever they were trying to fix
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Old 01-28-2019, 12:18 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You can actually take one partially apart in order to troubleshoot where the leak is coming from. Firstly, air it up. If the leak is coming out the barrel area, it's an oring on the bolt. If you hear the leak within the grip frame it is almost always a hose or fitting. In some cases a ring can cause it to leak back out the solenoid housing which would also come from in the frame.

Here are a couple of tips.
First, remove the grip panels and take the battery OUT. You will want to be able to reach/touch the bottom of the board. The board itself 'resides' in a slot inside the trigger frame rather than being mounted. There are a few lines that run inside. One runs to the front, over the reg, and then the other two are fore and aft of the board itself screwed into the body.

There are two screws in the frame itself and then one screw in the "barrel lip". Remove those and slowly pull down on the trigger frame, don't wiggle it back and forth. Use a finger to gently push up on the board from inside, it will stay "with" the body.
As you lower the frame away you will note that one of the hoses (the one attached to the reg) will stay with the frame. As you pull that down a touch you will reach a point where it won't easily lower any more.
At this point you can air up the rig to see if any of the hoses leak. IF you want to continue disassembly (without the tank on), gently turn the frame at an angle to the body so you can access the fitting on top of the reg area. When you pull that fitting loose the frame itself will pull away from the body and board. Make sure to guide your battery wires up through the frame to avoid breakage.

At this point you can loosen the fore and aft fittings that are near the board. Pull the eye wire off the bottom of the body and the board and hose assy will pull away.

The body slides backwards off the inner metal part. The metal part will pull apart from the front and back sections to access the bolt. There is also a bolt spacer in there that has a couple of rings on it.

Re-assembly is just the opposite. It should make sense to you. Screw the fore and aft fittings in, plug in the eye wire, line up the board to the frame slot, push closed some and put back on the reg fitting hose. MAKE SURE that as you close the body and frame back together that you make sure your eye wires and hoses are not being pinched inbetween. It's easy to do. If you feel resistance to the body and frame closing up, see what is in the way inside. There are channels for the hoses and eye wire to be in aside the fittings.
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Last edited by punkncat; 01-28-2019 at 12:27 PM.
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Old 01-28-2019, 05:04 PM   #8 (permalink)
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ZDSPB.com has all the info you need. I've kept the same(ish) Ion running since '05. Well, there aren't many stock parts on it anymore but still...
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Old 01-28-2019, 05:08 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by mlzplayer111 View Post
I will try my best! It will probably go to sh#t though...
Well you know where I am if you need help
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Old 01-28-2019, 09:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I will try first. Unlike my t68 the ion is actually a popular platform for alot of people!

Also I don't want to bug you to often
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Originally Posted by Mithuna View Post
That being said, if you call yourself out on a bounce shot (knowing it was skill that hit you and "luck" that saved you) , you may qualify for sainthood.
My youtube

Feedback 0+/0-

I talk too much. Forgive me.

If you are a kid and like to talk to people of pb this is the discord for you: https://discord.gg/3epPBJ

Last edited by mlzplayer111; 01-28-2019 at 09:47 PM.
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