Technical Issue - Sheridan will not fire!
I have had an issue with my sheridan's valve stem seeming to stick to the cupseal seat.
This seems to be the problem across two of my sheridan guns...
I tried removing the co2 plug by hand, but to no avail.
My next method of removal of the cartridge was to take the valve tool and try to disassemble the valve while it was aired up. I then thought that through a bit and remembered there was an o-ring in there that would probably send the valve tool through the roof.
Is the 12 gram stuck in the lower tube?
The 12 gram isn't stuck, it's aired up and in the lower tube.
Upon trigger pull, the hammer goes forward and gives the slightest pop from the air in the cartridge.
Confuses me thoroughly....
I may try lubing the h3ll out of the valve stem and giving it another go.
I'll be honest, from your description I don't understand what you are trying to describe as the problem. With that I apologize if any of this is useless info.
Is your 12 gram being punctured? If not it could be a worn out spring, the RVA isn't screwed in enough or the puncture pin is broken.
The valve stem shouldn't stick. If that's happening I would look to see if it's bent, extremely dirty or if something foreign is jamming it up.
Sometimes the 12gram changer can be extremely difficult to remove under pressure. Sometimes you have to empty the 12 gram by shooting.
I hope that was helpful.
Take the back off, the hammer out and get a dowel that fits in there. Insert dowel(maybe stick a nickle on it so the valve stem does not embed itself in the wood)in lower tube brace on floor and push to release the valve and degas.
so your unable to unscrew the 12g. knob while it is aired up because it will not fire, to release the pressure,correct?
I'd just use a piece of leather or something to protect the 12g. knobs knurling then use pliers to break it loose..the 12g should degas after a a 1/2 turn or so.
there's a vent hole in front of the valve for the co2 to escape through.
don't unscrew it all the way
I've taken my pair of vice grips (which I don't really like doing) and turned the CO2 plug out. I am going to try to lube the jesus out of it, and try again.
It's just so weird, I've just changed the cupseal and it was working fine for a while, then after sitting around for a bit...
I would disassemble and inspect everything. Dose the gun currently shoot? Once you get it figured out I would also recommend an extended 12 gram screw or a fast changer. A lot easier to grip. And if your gun is a PGP it helps keep you from shooting your own fingers.
I'd guess the hammer spring might be the only problem..worn out or too short.
replace it with a brand new one.it's the most common thing to go bad on P series sheridans.
does your gun have a RVA(velocity adjuster)? I'd definitely buy one if not.
MaD or MAD customs has all you need,hit him up.
Just lubed it up. I will be inserting pictures to ensure the basics of the seals are covered.
I removed the valve stem seal (Before the problem occurred) via a Bic lighter and an o-ring pick. (Use some sort of anti-burnyourself material to hold the stem)
- Heat up valve stem seal with open flame
- Insert o-ring pick into now molten seal
- Wait a couple seconds for it to harden
- Pull out seal
- Replace with new seal
I'm not sure how, but the stem seal has warped and ripped itself apart against the brass seat. I can only assume it was sticking?
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