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Old 09-01-2013, 11:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

LCD Board Fault Codes 3 & 4 Temperature Sensor Replacement Tutorial

This is my tutorial from Angel Owners. I wanted to bring this over here just in case Angel Owners one day falls as so many other forums.

I would like to start off by saying that this repair worked for me. It still may not work for you. Great care must be taken when doing this repair due to the difficulty of replacing an IC chip on a circuit board. A very small IC chip at that. This repair requires a good knowledge and ability in soldering. Very good patience is also needed. Just take your time, do not rush. I spent about $45 dollars to do this repair with shipping.

* 3 Temperature sensor chips - Jameco - $1.77 - 59 cents each
* Flux pen - Jameco - $7.49
* 20w Soldering pencil kit w/ - Radio Shack - $20-25
very fine point
* Fine gauge silver solder tube - Radio Shack - $4-5
* Desoldering braid - Radio Shack - $4-5

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Other tools
Small needle nose pliers
Small hook/pick
Anti-static mat and wrist strap

My thoughts on the anti static mat and strap lean towards unnecessary but are seriously a good idea when doing any type of printed circuit board work. I used it because I borrowed it from work. They are also available at Radio Shack for around $10 I think. Onto the fun part.

The temperature sensor chip is in board position IC5 right next to the charging port. It has 8 pins and has IC5 printed onto the board between the chip and charging port.

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I used the desoldering braid to help remove the old solder when removing the chip. I sandwiched the braid between the soldering pencil tip and the chip pins. I found that it worked better to lay the tip and braid across all 4 pins on one side at a time. It was too tricky for me to remove the solder pin by pin. To do it my way though, you must be careful not to overheat the board. Even pin by pin, alter sides each pin to help reduce the heat applied to the board.

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Once the solder is off, try and remove the chip from the board but go easy! I used the hook/pick here. Just be careful. You do not want to knick the board or any other components. I then removed as much old solder as I could with the braid again.

At this point I used the flux pen to flux the board and chip pins. You can use a jar of flux also. It is about $5 at Radio Shack also. The pen was a cool eye catcher. Plus there is a minimum $10 purchase at Jameco. So thats why I bought it and 3 chips. I almost bought 20 plus chips, then I found the flux and solder. After fluxing the board contacts, I tinned them with some new silver solder. You could also tin the chip pins instead of the board. (Tinning is when you apply solder to a components contacts before joining the components together) Only tin one thing, not both. You DO NOT want too much solder. You need to be extremely careful not to connect 2 contacts together with too much solder.

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Next I held the new chip in place on the tinned contacts and melted the solder for each contact individually, alternating sides each pin to help minimize heat on the board. Remember to make sure that you do not have too much solder and that you do not connect two contacts together with solder. ALSO - MAKE SURE YOU ORIENT THE CHIP IN THE SAME DIRECTION. Each pin has a specific circuit. If you look closely on the chip you can see some letters and numbers. With the board positioned as if it were straight up in the trigger frame, the letters and numbers should be right side up, not upside down.

**** Correction on chip orientation**** Thanks to Pittbull for pointing this out. I am not an electronics expert.

**Donít use the text on the IC as a reference to how the IC is to lay. If you look at picture DSCN1363.JPG (the last one on the first post) there is an indent on top of the IC. That tells you the pin right next to it is pin 1. Always use that indent on the IC as the reference. Different companies mark components differently.**

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Once the new chip is fully installed, reassemble and install the board and test her out!

This pic shows the board reading practically the same temp as a digital food thermometer.

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I would like to thank Pittbull and Doc for their never ending knowledge into the world of the Angel. Thanks to the entire forum for always coming up with the right answer and repairs. Please don't throw any more stock LCD boards away! Save the classics! If you have any questions feel free to ask. But do not ask me to do this repair for you... for any price because I will not do it. As long as you have a steady hand and some technical abilities you should be able to do this repair. Just take your time. In the end, what will you lose? A couple of bucks and a board? I thought the board was junk to begin with... SO FIX IT!
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Old 08-19-2017, 03:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: South East for now; I get moved every couple of years!

Thank-you for posting this! I just salvaged an LCD board and resurrected my Angel LCD from the netherworld of heritage paintball markers. Looking forward to wreaking havoc on the fields with my Angel again!
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Old 08-24-2017, 12:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
Paintball is my Obsession
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Awesome! Glad it helped someone out!
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Old 09-07-2017, 08:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Location: Central texas

Very good write up.
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Need money? I buy Eclipse splash stuff..
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Old 09-07-2017, 12:09 PM   #5 (permalink)
Paintball is my Obsession
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA

Thank you
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